Backpacking Macedonia And Albania: Beer Towers, Lake Views And A Man Called Dragon

Arriving to Skopje: Beer Towers & Mystery Festivals

After landing in Skopje late morning, on a Wizz Air flight from Luton, I jumped on a shuttle bus into the city. The bus dropped me near the main station, and as fate would have it, I met two friendly – Jeremy and Steve – who were also heading to the same hostel, Shanti Hostel.

Shanti turned out to be a cracking little spot: cheap, breakfast included, run by friendly local girls, and only a 10‑minute walk from the centre. Within minutes, the three of us were checked in and heading out to explore the city.

Skopje’s riverside was buzzing – hundreds of people out on the streets, some kind of festival happening although we never did find out what exactly.

We crossed the bridge into the lovely old town and eventually settled on a bar/restaurant called Temov.

They served 3‑litre beer towers with self-pouring taps for 600 dinar. Naturally, we ordered three of them. We talked absolute rubbish for hours, then inhaled a shish kebabs and chips, and somehow made it back to our dorm room.

Ohrid: Castles, Churches & A Dorm to Myself

I woke up early and wandered Skopje for several hours, exploring the old town’s narrow cobbled streets and bazaar. I turned out to be a pleasant city, and much more enjoyable being viewed with clear eyes rather than the bottle of a pint glass. Nothing mind‑blowing, but a great place to stroll with a super chilled vibe.

At lunchtime, I caught a bus to Ohrid. Sat next to me on the way, I met a guy called Dragon – yes, Dragon – well, that’s what his name sounded like anyway, from Kicevo, nearby.

His English was flawless, better than mine – but not just flawless: he spoke in a perfect posh Queen’s English accent. We discussed Balkan politics, British politics, life in general, and his belief that I shouldn’t leave my wife alone at home.

Ohrid is a small city located on a stunning lake of the same name. I stumbled upon a hostel right on the harbour and checked in.

At just 9 euros a night for a dorm bed, it was a steal, especially when I ended up with the entire 8‑bed dorm to myself. Result.

Ohrid itself was stunning. I walked up to the castle, past the Roman amphitheatre, and was rewarded with spectacular views over the lake. I wandered around the church of Sveti Kliment i Pantelejmon, perched high up, overlooking the lake, then along the lakeside promenade – a truly beautiful setting.

Dinner was at Momir, a restaurant perched right on the water. Bread, breaded cheese, pork medallions, beer – all for 650 dinar. Bliss.

Struga → Tirana: Mountains, Mosques & Couchsurfing

The next morning, I grabbed a taxi to Struga and waited for the bus to Tirana. I met a German guy, Stefan, and we chatted the whole way. The scenery after crossing into Albania was breath-taking – dramatic mountains everywhere, with local farmers tending their crops with primitive machinery and ox.

We arrived in Tirana at 3pm and wandered around taking photos: the clock tower, the mosque, the main square, and the wonderfully tatty pyramid.

We grabbed ice cream, before it was time for me to head off ad meet my couchsurfing host, Regi.

Regi was brilliant – easygoing, funny, and welcoming. He had another surfer staying at his, Louis, plus a group of friends had turned up, ready for a night out.

We all went for a long walk in the park. The girls were great fun; Louis was a bit harder to read.

After getting changed at Regi’s place, we headed to Mama Rossa for beer, salad and meat, then onto Bar Moma for Cuba Libres. We got home at 2am.

Tirana: Storms, Sandwiches & Goodbye Balkans

I woke to a huge storm – flooded streets, grey skies, relentless rain. I tried to find Stefan at Tirana Backpackers but no luck.

Once the rain eased, I wandered the city again, climbed the clock tower, then camped out in Shamrock Bar with tea, croissants and a club sandwich. I sat there for hours watching Albanians go about their business for the day.

Eventually I grabbed a bus to the airport and flew home – soaked, tired, but very happy for this wonderful experience to enjoy these two cities perched in the far southeastern part of Europe.