England play in Coimbra
After joining the England Supporters Club a year earlier, Portugal and Euro 2004 was to be our first major tournament.
Three of us were flying out to Lisbon and heading up to the old riverside city of Coimbra to watch England take on Switzerland in their second group match.
We’d booked a hire car and were meant to share the driving, but as we walked out of Lisbon airport into traffic that looked like it was stuck on the spin cycle of a washing machine,
I immediately delegated the driving to my mate, the more “European‑experienced” of the group.
He did a fantastic job navigating us four hours north to charming Coimbra.
We checked into our hotel. Well, tried to. They’d screwed up our booking, but luckily I had proof and, double luckily, they had one spare room left.
With the English in town, there wouldn’t have been a spare bed for 50 miles.
At breakfast we were surprised to see the BBC Sports crew dining at the table next to us.
The BBC must’ve been cost‑cutting – this was not exactly a classy hotel.
Seeing the presenters prompted an important debate among us: how do you spell the name of BBC presenter Mark Poogash? Such an unfortunate name.
With our bellies full of a fantastic stuffing of freshly made warm Portuguese rolls, we hit the beer in preparation for the big game.
While watching an international fan‑fest 5‑a‑side tournament mid‑morning, I was approached by a Portuguese radio presenter wanting a live interview. After a couple of questions about score predictions, he asked, “Isn’t it a bit early to be drinking?” “Never too early for the English,” I replied, regretting how yobbish I sounded the moment the words came out of my mouth.
England won convincingly, with a young Wayne Rooney stealing the show with a brace in the 3‑0 win.
Cascais: Sun, Seafood and a Donny Osmond Haircut
It was time to wave goodbye to Coimbra, and my mate safely drove us the four hours to Cascais, an old seaside fishing village just a few kilometres along the scenic Lisbon coast.
Old cobbled streets, quaint cottages, seafood eateries and a wonderful stretch of beach greeted us, along with clear blue sky and boiling hot sun.
I’d been here several years before, but the magic of the place hadn’t worn off.
A night out was inevitable. It wasn’t long before we hooked up with a bunch of local lads, led by a guy sporting a classic Donny Osmond 70s haircut. Super friendly, they took us to a few bars and a club before we stumbled home in the early hours.
After a couple of relaxing days on the beach, it was time to head home.
A few days later, England were out of the tournament – once again on penalties in the quarter‑finals, this time against the hosts, Portugal.
But the trip had whetted our appetite for something bigger. The World Cup in Germany in two years.
