Backpacking New Zealand: North Island

Arriving into Wellington

After a scenic 3.5‑hour Cook Strait crossing, we arrived in Wellington, New Zealand’s capital – a compact, windy city where we spent a day bouncing between Mount Victoria’s panoramic views and the insides of several excellent bars. A balanced cultural experience.

The next morning, we hightailed it to Lake Taupo – more stunning scenery by day, more nightlife by evening. We finally saw some volcanic activity at the Craters of the Moon walkway, although on a hangover it felt more like “Craters of Mild headache.”

Rotorua & Waitomo: Geysers & Glowworms

Next stop: Rotorua, the thermal city that smells like the inside of our hire car after a night out. We wandered through steaming valleys and watched geysers explode at Te Whakarewarewa – very impressive, even if the smell made my eyes water.

Waitomo: Glowworms & Black Water Rafting

Waitomo is famous for glowworms, but instead of the gentle boat ride, we opted for Black Water Rafting – sitting in rubber rings, floating through pitch‑black caves, letting underground rivers carry us into the unknown. It was epic, surreal, even if at times, I had no idea which way I was facing or when the next drop would be or the tunnel end.

Bay of Islands: Speedboats & Stupidity

We then bombed it five hours north to Paihia in the Bay of Islands. Being in the Bay of Islands, it felt rude not to visit some islands – which obviously required a boat.

Down at the marina, we asked about hiring a speedboat.

“Do you guys have boating experience?” “Yeah yeah yeah,” we all mumbled, looking at each other like guilty schoolkids.

Ten minutes later, unbelievably, we were handed the keys. One guy out of six had sort of been on a boat once, so we trusted him with our lives.

He got us out of the marina in one piece, and then – with much encouragement – we told him to “floor it”. I was shocked at the speed as we smashed into waves, the boat threatening to snap in half while we screamed with laughter. Totally irresponsible. Totally unforgettable.

We moored (yes, moored – even I knew you don’t “park” a boat) on Roberton Island, a stunning twin‑lagoon paradise with pristine beaches and no one else around. We explored the cliffs and bush of the 4km island, feeling like castaways.

Then disaster: the tide had gone out. In our experience, we had moored up too close to the beach. Three‑quarters of the boat was now marooned on the sand.

With frantic heaving, pushing, rocking and swearing, we managed to free it and speed back to the marina – not before getting a radio warning for going too fast. Which was fair.

The next day we behaved ourselves and joined a proper tour to the famous Hole in the Rock and more gorgeous islands.

Cape Reinga & Sand Dune Surfing

Cape Reinga, sacred to Māori as the place where spirits depart for the next life, was a four‑hour drive away. After the largest breakfast I’ve ever eaten (steak, chips, bacon, eggs, sausage, beans – basically a heart attack on a plate), we set off.

From the lighthouse, we watched the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean collide – two currents visibly smashing together in a rough, swirling mess. Nature showing off.

On the way back, we attempted sand dune surfing – except we’d missed the rental shop for bodyboards. So we ran and rolled down the dunes in our underpants.

I still don’t know why we didn’t just wear shorts.

It was fun, but we spent the rest of the night in a Paihia nightclub picking sand out of places sand should never be.

Skydiving: Terror at 10,000 Feet

After two cancellations in Taupo and Rotorua, I finally got to skydive in Paihia.

Most skydive companies have multiple instructors, big planes, and a whole production line of jumpers. I found a one‑man band – one pilot, one instructor, one tiny plane.

We boarded, me strapped to the instructor, both of us wedged in the only space available, behind the pilot’s seat.

I’d felt calm until we reached 5,000 feet.

Then my left leg started shaking uncontrollably. My underpants were dangerously close to being soiled.

As the altitude climbed – 8,000… 9,000… – my brain screamed that humans should not jump out of planes. At 10,000 feet, the instructor slid open the door and pushed me forward. My legs dangled over the abyss, my stomach felt sick, and I became desperate for a runny poo.

Then we were out.

We summersaulted through the sky in a blur of clouds and chaos. I had no idea which way was up. After 45 seconds of freefall, the chute deployed with a violent jolt, and suddenly everything was calm.

The views were unreal – emerald seas, tiny islands, patchwork farmland. After five minutes of floating, we touched down.

Exhilarating. Terrifying. Over too quick.

Auckland & The Final Insane Road Trip

Auckland was the final stop for most of the group. After sad goodbyes, I continued solo for a whirlwind tour of the North Island, forgetting just how long it takes to get anywhere in this country.

I explored the Coromandel, stopping at stunning bays and beaches, then headed to Whakatāne in the Bay of Plenty.

White Island: Heat, Sulphur & Awe

From Whakatāne, I took a tour to White Island, New Zealand’s only constantly active volcano. Even from shore, you could see it smouldering.

After an hour’s boat ride, we transferred by dinghy and walked across solid volcanic rock in blistering heat. Gas masks were handed out as sulphur filled the air. The crater was like another planet – steam vents, bubbling mud, and an eerie sense of danger.

Tiny island bees (or stinging insects of some sort) attacked us, adding to the drama.

It was awe‑inspiring – and sobering. This was the same volcano that tragically erupted in 2019, killing 22 tourists and guides.

East Cape: Remote, Wild & Wonderful

The East Cape gets few visitors – remote, wild, deeply Māori, and spiritually rich.

Kids ran to the roadside to wave as I passed; I felt like a novelty, a lone traveller tearing through villages where nothing much changes.

I reached Gisborne. With not much going on in town, I attempted to find the easternmost point of New Zealand – marked by a lighthouse. A rough dirt track and a misleading sign (“2km” actually meant 21km, hidden under mud) defeated me. Box unticked this time.

The Most Insane Drive of My Life

The next day I left at dawn:

Gisborne to Napier -walked around pretty Art Deco city rebuilt after a massive earthquake
Across the entire island to Taranaki with it’s perfect conical volcano and stunning scenery
Headed up to New Plymouth to have a look around
Then drove all the way to Hamilton arriving late at night

A 19-hour day of which about 13-hours were driving. Exhausting, but the scenery was mind‑blowing. And I questioned my sanity.

Goodbye New Zealand – For Now

After a few quiet days preparing to move on to Australia, my time in New Zealand was up. I had fallen in love with the country – the natural beauty, the energy of the place, the vibe, the culture, the people, the climate, the open spaces. I felt totally at home.

I had a feeling that I would be back. I wanted to call it home one day. And that dream one day – came true.