Starting off in Trat
Trat doesn’t get much attention.
Most travellers treat it as nothing more than a stepping stone between Thailand and Cambodia or a launchpad to Ko Chang. But we liked its quiet, narrow streets — a bit like Beijing’s hutongs, except it’s loaded with cool cafés and fewer peopl. Still, we used it exactly the same as others: a stepping stone to Ko Chang.
Ko Chang: Café delights and blagging a free pool
From Trat we headed into the Ko Chang Archipelago — around fifty islands, most uninhabited or privately owned.
The island of Ko Chang is Thailand’s third‑largest island and the most developed. Not long ago it was just jungle and a couple of beach shacks; now the west coast is a 30km buffet of resorts for every budget.
Down in the corner is Lonely Beach, the backpacker zone, and not really that lonely. Great beach, cool cafés, and famous for late nights. We stayed nearby but far enough from the noise to avoid being woken by someone’s 4am fire‑show performance.
On our first beach stroll, someone handed us a flyer for that night’s party. Happy hour: 10–11pm. 10–11pm?! As if we were going to set an alarm to go out.
We hired a scooter and zipped up and down the coast.
A wrong turn led us to a deserted beach and, further along, a fancy resort with huge villas, private hot tubs, manicured lawns — and absolutely no guests.
We wandered in, acted like we belonged, and swam in their Olympic‑sized infinity pool.
Not sure how we got away with it. With my scruffy beard, I looked like I couldn’t afford a razor, let alone a luxury villa. But no one questioned us, so we spent the afternoon living our best fake‑rich lives.
Ko Wai: Paradise… Until the Sand Flies came along
Next up was Ko Wai, a tiny jungle‑clad island with just five sets of bungalows and no roads. It’s peaceful, simple, and stunning — except when the snorkelling day‑trippers arrive and briefly turn one beach into a 18-30 club resort.
By late afternoon, though, the island emptied and we shared the main beach with just one other couple.
It was perfect… until the sand flies came out.
Within minutes we looked like we’d contracted measles.
These bites were vicious — tiny flies you don’t see until it’s too late, leaving an itch that lasts days, sometimes weeks.
The kind of itch that feels so good you can’t stop scratching, even after the blood comes out.
After two days of scratching ourselves raw, we moved on.
Ko Mak: The sweet spot
And then we found it: Ko Mak — our perfect island.
It’s funny how a few weeks of island‑hopping turned us into self‑appointed beach critics.
Suddenly I’m Tom Hanks in Cast Away, analysing sand colour, water clarity, bungalow styles, sunset angles, café quality, and whether Wilson would approve.
Ko Mak ticked every box:
- Small enough to explore, big enough not to get bored
- A few simple roads for scooters, bikes, or wandering
- Hidden beaches everywhere
- Crystal‑clear water and soft white sand
- Friendly locals
- Great food and cafés
- Perfect sunsets
- A relaxed vibe with hardly anyone around
No surprise we stayed longer here than anywhere else on our trip.
Ko Rayang Nok: Kayaking for Our Lives
Just 3km offshore from our bungalow was Ko Rayang Nok, a tiny private island that looks like a jewel in the sea. With no ATMs anywhere and our cash running low, we decided to kayak there — partly to save money, partly to feel healthy.
It started beautifully: calm water, tropical fish below us, blue skies.
Ten minutes in, my biceps were exploding, my dodgy wrist was screaming, and my legs were threatening to detach themselves.
We kept whacking each other’s oars, had no rhythm, no life jackets, barely any water, and were slowly melting under the sun, ready for an argument.
We bobbed in the middle of the ocean like a pair of forgotten bath toys.
After 45 minutes of suffering, we made it and collapsed on the sand.
The island was stunning — pure white beach, clear water, total peace. Worth every stroke… until we remembered we had to kayak back.
The return trip was quicker, but we were so hungry we briefly considered eating each other’s limbs. Back on Ko Mak, we inhaled food and passed out.
Ko Kut: The Last Island
Our final stop was Ko Kut, Thailand’s fourth‑largest island but still largely undeveloped.
Just one main road, a few dirt tracks, and a scattering of bungalows along the west coast.
It felt like Ko Chang probably did twenty years ago — quiet, remote, and ridiculously beautiful. We spent two days exploring beaches and villages by scooter, soaking up our final moments of Southeast Asian Island life.
This was our last beach in the region, and we watched the final sunset with a tear in our eye.
Back to Bangkok
We returned to Bangkok, the end of our Southeast Asia trail.
We stocked up on cheap fake goods, finally got my hair cut, and prepared ourselves for re‑entering the Western world after four months.
We’ll miss the easy-going lifestyle, the chaos, the food, and the freedom.
But we’re also looking forward to buses that don’t cram in 400 people, drivers who don’t drive like they’re in a video game, and — most importantly — crackers and cheese.
