Bangkok: the fun time city
Bangkok is the gateway to Southeast Asia.
I’ve passed through many times and, while it’s a sprawling, sweaty concrete mess, it’s always a joy to visit. It’s a city that awakens all the sense.
Step outside your accommodation and you’re instantly hit by the smell of fried food from street vendors, the roar of snarling traffic, tuk‑tuks coughing out fumes, and the skytrain thundering overhead like thunder.
Within seconds you’re sweating, and within minutes someone has offered you a suit, Viagra, a handbag, a taxi, a tuk‑tuk, and a massage — sometimes all from the same person, and all at a “special price”.
This is Bangkok. Fun‑time city. Anything goes.
It’s exhausting and exhilarating all at the same time, and never, ever dull.
Bangkok: A flying stop
We didn’t do much sightseeing on this visit as we’ll be back in a few weeks, but we did pop into Wat Pho, home to the 46‑metre reclining Buddha who looks like he’s having the world’s most relaxing lie‑down.
What did surprise me was how expensive Bangkok has become. Street food under £3 was hard to find, though after some determined sniffing we found a £1 dish that saved the day. Bangkok has boomed — the shopping malls prove it. Anya’s new Gucci belt was definitely coming from the fake market, not the real one.
We headed over to Khao San Road, the backpacker ghetto where fresh‑out‑of‑uni travellers begin (or end) their round‑the‑world trips.
Thirteen years since my last visit and it’s changed — McDonald’s, Starbucks, Burger King… the usual suspects have moved in. The backpacker vibe has spilled into the surrounding streets.
I’m too old for this area now, so an afternoon was enough. Although if funds run low when we return, we may well end up here – it’s the cheapest in town for sure.
Bangkok to Laos: The Sleeper Train Shuffle
It’s a twelve‑hour sleeper train from Bangkok to Vientiane, Laos. We splashed out on 1st class, which basically meant a two‑berth cabin, a sink the size of a goldfish bowl, and a toothbrush holder. Luxury.
The Thai train goes as far as Nong Khai, then a local train hops across the border to Thanaleng, and the final 13 km to Vientiane is by taxi.
A Quick History of Laos
After centuries of Khmer rule (9th–13th century), Laos united as Lan Xang, the “Land of a Million Elephants”. The Siamese (Thai) ruled for a century, then the French pushed them out in the late 19th century. Today Laos is semi‑communist but slowly reforming, hoping to catch up with its neighbours and shake off the label of being one of the world’s poorest countries.
The French have given the world many things — wine, cheese, baguettes, beautiful buildings, and a reputation for arrogance. Vientiane still carries that French charm: cafés, bakeries, pastries, and colonial architecture everywhere.
Travellers often say Vientiane has “nothing to offer”, but we found it a pleasant, easy‑going city with a brilliant café culture. After the chaos of Bangkok, the quiet streets and relaxed vibe were a welcome change.
Café Life, Pastries & Painful Pleasure
We spent two relaxing days eating pastries and hiding in air‑conditioned cafés to escape the heat. With my back still twinging, I went for a £4 foot and back massage.
I’ve never had a foot massage before, and I’m not sure why anyone would choose a career involving strangers’ sweaty feet — especially travellers’ feet. After a scrub to remove the top layer of dirt, my masseuse unleashed a level of pain usually reserved for North Korean interrogation rooms. My toes were yanked, my ankles crunched, and her tiny elbows somehow wedged between my toes.
She stared me dead in the eyes every time she inflicted pain, smiling sweetly as if to say, “Take that, you wimp.” All I could manage was, “Ah… that’s good.” I couldn’t walk afterwards, but weirdly, I felt better. More Lao massages may be needed.
Sunset on the Mekong
The Mekong River — Southeast Asia’s lifeline — flows right through Vientiane. Watching the sunset over this vast river is spectacular. We found a bar called Bor Pen Yang on the fourth floor and watched the sun melt into the horizon with a £1.30 litre of Beer Lao. Bliss.
Vang Vieng: From Party Central to Peaceful Escape
Four hours north lies Vang Vieng, once infamous for alcohol, drugs, and river tubing carnage. In 2011 alone, twenty-two people died floating down the river drunk, stopping at bars to drink buckets of cocktails and eating opium pizza.
The authorities cracked down hard. Today only a few riverside bars remain, and the vibe is much calmer. We’re far too old for tubing‑while‑intoxicated anyway, so we found a peaceful spot overlooking the river and enjoyed the scenery.
We rented a scooter and visited waterfalls, caves, and a “blue lagoon”. Nothing mind‑blowing, but the ride through stunning landscapes and tiny villages made it a great day out.
Next Stop: Luang Prabang
Visa rules once again ruined our overland dreams, so instead of heading south into Cambodia, we need to go north and fly out. For now, the old Lao city of Luang Prabang awaits.
