Over-landing Travel To Mozambique And Zimbabwe - Safaris, Beaches, & Hyper-inflation

Meeting the crew

“Three people haven’t turned up, we don’t have a truck yet, and we’re leaving two days late.” Not exactly the dream opening line from Eddie, our Kumuka guide, as the six of us sat cramped around a table at the Ritz Hostel in Johannesburg.

I’d just finished three weeks travelling South Africa and had pre‑booked a five‑week overland Kumuka Adventures trip from Jo’burg to Nairobi. This was phase one: Mozambique and Zimbabwe.

I had just been introduced to my fellow travellers who I was to be sharing, what I imagined to be, a rugged military‑style truck, for phase one.

The crew

My first impressions of our ragtag crew consisted of:

Peter – tall, thin, English, and seemed to be worried about everything.
Matt – English, similar age to me, from Guernsey, seemed normal (thank God).
Lou – Mexican mum, little English – and looked like she didn’t want to be there
Natalia & Natasha -her daughters, early twenties, quiet, but friendly enough
Me – wondering what the hell I’d signed up for.

The missing three passengers? Still missing. No message. No explanation. Who books an expensive overland trip across Africa and just… doesn’t show up?

Lion Park & The Minivan of Doom

To soften the blow, Kumuka gave us free beers and a free trip to Jo’burg’s Lion Park. Seeing lions behind a fence felt a bit “meh” considering we were about to spend five weeks in actual lion territory.

Back at the hostel, dinner conversation was painful. It felt like this was going to be a long couple of weeks.

The next morning, still no sign of the missing trio, we waited outside for Judah, our driver, to arrive with the truck.

And then Judah turned up… in a minivan.

A worn‑out, cramped, 10‑seater minivan. My truck dreams died on the spot.

Eddie assured us we’d get a proper truck in Harare. Harare was near the end of phase one. Brilliant.

Kruger: The Safari Begins

After an arduous six‑hour drive, we reached Kruger National Park – South Africa’s crown jewel. We saw elephants, buffalo, giraffes, hippos, jackals, hyenas, gazelles… a solid start.

Lou, however, nearly became part of the food chain. She asked Eddie if she could get out of the van to take a closer photo of the animals.

“This is the African savanna, love, not a petting zoo.”

That night, I shared a tent with Matt. I slept approximately 11 minutes thanks to Lou’s snoring, which I’m convinced echoed across the entire park and kept the wildlife awake too.

Mozambique: Poverty, Pepper and Paradise

Crossing into Mozambique was like being slapped in the face by reality. Just ten years after a brutal 15‑year civil war, the country was still reeling.

Maputo was pleasant enough, though Peter nearly had a breakdown because he couldn’t find batteries for his camera. After an hour of traipsing around, we found some and restored his will to live.

The next morning, I was on breakfast duty with Peter. I made scrambled eggs. He refused to let anyone eat them because we didn’t have pepper. PEPPER. He eventually borrowed some, but I knew then that his worrying was going to drive me insane.

Tofo & Vilankulo: The Indian Ocean at Its Best

The ten‑hour drive to Tofo took us past villages where kids in ragged clothes waved enthusiastically. I wondered what they thought of us – aliens? rich strangers? sad people with no community? Africa has a way of making you question everything.

Tofo was gorgeous: cabins on the beach, snorkelling, hammocks, warm sea. Then we headed north to Vilankulo on some of the worst roads I’ve ever seen but with some of the most stunning coastline.

We got stuck in sand on a steep hill and were rescued by one of the millions of 4×4‑driving South African holidaymakers.

Benguera Island: Paradise, Crocs & No Beer

We took a traditional dhow to Benguera Island – wild dunes, crystal‑clear water, tiny villages of mud huts, friendly locals.

Peter, another tourist and I walked to a crocodile‑infested lake and then swam in the ocean, which was basically a warm bath.

When we returned, the generator had broken. No running water. No cold beer. Tragedy.

Worse, the campsite had been overrun by South African Christmas holidaymakers who had apparently left their manners at the border. Loud, rude, obnoxious – a complete personality flip from the lovely South Africans I’d met earlier.

Thankfully, the next day we escaped to Bazaruto Island – pure paradise.

Magaruque Island: Snorkels & Calamari

On the way back to Vilankulo, we stopped at Magaruque Island. Valentina and I walked around it in 90 minutes, snorkelled, ate calamari on the dhow, and soaked up the last of Mozambique’s magic.

Three days on the islands had been exceptional. Now it was time for something… less exceptional.

Zimbabwe: Mugabe, Mayhem & Hyperinflation

Crossing into Zimbabwe was smooth, but the economic crisis hit immediately.

Ed went to buy food. He was gone for hours. There was hardly any.

Fuel was scarce. Shops were empty. People were desperate.

We stayed with Ann, a European Zimbabwean woman who gave us a brutal insight into life under Mugabe:

White farmers driven off their land – many murdered
Locals left with no farming skills = food shortages
Fuel crisis due to lack of foreign currency
Hyperinflation spiralling out of control
Mugabe “winning” elections with impossible numbers
Unemployment everywhere
People begging foreigners to help them escape

The official exchange rate was 80 Zim dollars to 1 USD. The black‑market rate was 1000 to 1. The next day it was 1600 to 1. A 60% increase overnight.

We changed money illegally in the backs of cars. If caught, the penalties were severe. But you had no choice, unless you wanted to spend at the official rate and buy a beer for USD$50

Locals asked me twice if I could help them get out of the country. A mall security guard asked if he could write to me for help.

This was a desperate population.

Christmas in Harare: The Van Gets Worse

On Christmas Day, Eddie and Judah returned with our “new van”.

It was smaller.

An 8‑seater. For 8 people. Plus gear.

Kumuka bribed us with free food, wine and vodka. Backpackers are easily bought.

We drove 3.5 hours to Gweru and stayed at Antelope Park, where Christmas suddenly became magical -we got to stuff our faces with an impressive Christmas Dinner laid on for us.

Antelope Park: Lions, Elephants & Peter Gets Flattened

Antelope Park was incredible:

Kayaking on the river
Standing next to elephants as they drank
Walking with 11‑month‑old lions

The lions were “not overly dangerous”, which is a phrase that inspires zero confidence. We were told not to turn our backs and given sticks to fend them off if they got too playful.

Peter turned his back. A lion leapt on him, knocked him flat. He survived.

We also played with lion cubs aged 2 weeks to 5 months – an unforgettable experience.

Bulawayo, Rhinos & The Final Stretch

After a posh dinner in Bulawayo (another Kumuka apology), we visited Matobo National Park and saw rhinos.

Finally, exhausted and cramped, we reached Victoria Falls – the end of phase one.

Peter and the Mexicans left for their own adventures. Matt and I joined a new group – this time with a proper truck – including my brother, who was also travelling Africa.

We took a 25‑minute flight over Vic Falls – “The Smoke That Thunders” – and it was breathtaking.

We also played the most ridiculous round of golf ever:

Caddies collecting balls by hand
Zebra poo rules
Warthogs sprinting across the fairway
A hippo bathing in a water trap

Africa never disappoints.

Phase One Complete

Despite the chaos, the cramped van, the missing passengers, the hyperinflation, the snoring, the pepper crisis, and Peter’s lion‑related trauma – the six of us had bonded really well.

But phase two awaited: Victoria Falls to Nairobi. A proper truck. A new crew. And Africa still stretching endlessly ahead.